Gucci gets a lot of love. Celebrities like Jared Leto go gaga for creative director Alessandro Michele′s vision of magpie glam. Tom Ford′s archival sexed-up Gucci pieces, from when he revived the house between 1994 and 2004, also have a viral appeal. But what about Gucci before the heavyweight designers were brought in? I never paid attention to Gucci before Ford′s era, but since the film House of Gucci has entered my sphere, I′ve been exploring the archives from the ′70s and ′80s.
For the uninitiated, House of Gucci is based on the true story of the Gucci family in the ‘70s to the mid ′90s. The plot is a juicy trifecta of sex, money, and murder. Lady Gaga plays Patrizia Reggiani, the ex-wife of Maurizio Gucci, who hires a hitman to assassinate her ex-husband. (Reggiani, 72, was released from prison in 2016.) Adam Driver stars as Maurizio, along with Jared Leto as the balding, corduroy-suit-wearing Paolo Gucci. The film has received the stamp of approval from the label, which gave its blessing to director Ridley Scott and access to its archives.
With all of this attention surrounding the film, I have become a bit hungry for that classic, monied glamour. The clothes remind me of WASPs but infused with Italian passion: a hardware horsebit here, buffed leather there, and big ole monogram all over. The classic pieces have endured. The leather loafers, Jackie bag, bamboo handles, and floral silk scarves are still perennially Gucci—and all were worn religiously by Reggiani. In the film, Gaga makes a case for that polished attire with scarves knotted delicately under the chin and jewelry worn over the collar of a black turtleneck. The old Gucci look evokes restrained, genetically inherited taste.
The monied aesthetic is no accident, as Gucci historically outfitted the upper classes. Rodolfo Gucci commissioned an artist to create a fantastical floral print that was inspired by and designed for actor Grace Kelly. There′s an iconic photo of her exiting the boutique with the scarf elegantly knotted around her neck like a choker. Both Ford and Michele went on to use the Flora print in their collections.
There is also the Fifties Constance bag, which was later famously named for Jackie Onassis. The Jackie is modestly shaped with rounded edges. Neither micro nor jumbo, it′s understated and practical. The 1990 December Vogue issue includes a spread of Claudia Schiffer dressed as Onassis. In one instance, Schiffer totes a bamboo-handle crocodile purse. In another, she wears a linen and leather Jackie bag. So glam!
the spread are the house′s famous horsebit loafers in buttercream yellow, light burgundy, and black suede, paired with jeans and miniskirts. The now iconic shoe was created in 1953 by Aldo Gucci, who loved the equestrian lifestyle and added it to the American-beloved loafer. All these pieces whisper luxury rather than scream money. It′s an investment piece that never goes out of style or loses its classic patina.
A quick scan of searching vintage Gucci 70s (or 80s) will give you plenty of options to bring this look into your wardrobe. The internet′s vintage stores are chock full of monogrammed doctor bags. There are smooth and stellar leather pieces with impeccable shine and the interlocking gold Gs stamped on the front. I personally have my eye on a pair of blue Gucci suede loafers with bamboo horsebit hardware. The quality looks like it is good as new. After all, the house′s long-standing philosophy has been creating only what′s made to last.
